The beef is salted and hung to dry in the open mountain air of towns like Barichara for a day or more before it ever touches a grill, a technique that let Santander's dry canyon climate cure meat safely without refrigeration.
Thin sheets of beef are salted, brushed with vinegar or lime, and hung to air-dry until concentrated and slightly leathery, then grilled fast over coals. Roadside stands sell it sliced with arepa, avocado, and lime.