The name traces back to 'borrajo,' an old Spanish word for hot cooking embers — a nod to an older method of cooking food in ashes that eventually got carried over to deep-frying.
Ripe plantain is sliced, sandwiched around a slab of soft cheese, dipped in an egg batter, and deep-fried until golden. Street stands across Cali sell them hot in paper, often alongside guava paste.