Traditional grottos still stir it for the better part of an hour in a copper pot over an open fire — a slow method locals insist changes the texture enough to be worth the arm workout.
Coarse cornmeal is stirred continuously into simmering water until it thickens into a dense, spoonable mass, then served soft with melted cheese or sliced and grilled alongside braised meat or game. Ticino's rustic grotti (stone taverns) and market food stalls serve it as a hearty regional staple.