By the end of the Second World War, London had more than a hundred shops dedicated to eels, pie and mash — today only a handful survive.
Fresh eels are chopped and simmered until tender, then left to cool in their own gelatinous stock, which sets into a savoury jelly around the meat. East End pie-and-mash shops serve them cold in a bowl with vinegar and white pepper, alongside their pies and mash.