Mountain Market · Black Mushroom Rice
Diri Djon Djon (Black Mushroom Rice)
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The tiny djon djon mushroom used to color and flavor the rice is cultivated almost nowhere else in Haiti but the humid hillsides around Grande-Rivière-du-Nord, then sold dried by the cupful.
Rice is cooked in the dark, earthy soaking liquid of dried black djon djon mushrooms until it turns a deep grey-black, giving off an aroma close to truffle. Street cooks ladle it onto plates alongside fried fish or griot from big pots at market stalls.
Why it's made this way: The Nord department's mountain village of Grande-Rivière-du-Nord is the near-exclusive source of djon djon mushrooms, making this the region's signature contribution to Haitian cooking.
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